During the 1970’s my love of gardening was influenced by my parents who had bought 18 acres in upstate New York. Shhh, but don’t tell my parents that I actually enjoyed it. And of my five siblings, I think I enjoyed it more than most. Towards the end of each summer, a lot of canning and preserving took place. With long, long hours of canning into the night. We would put up hundreds of jars of vegetables and fruits over the course of about 15 years, while living in Wayne County. And, during the cold winter months, invariably one of us kids would be sent down into the dark dirt floored basement of our 1903 farmhouse to get peaches, beans, pickled corn relish or tomato sauce from the cellar. It would be a long time (some 30 plus years) before I would be able to fully engage in my love of gardening, as my dad had taught all of us. I now have seven acres to play with and have re-ignited my passion and love for really good homegrown food. This past spring I planted heirloom seeds in my garden, which have not been sprayed with any pesticides nor been genetically altered. The goal is to apply old school basics to gardening. I am attempting to teach myself how to harvest heirloom seeds and save a small batch of seeds for my very own little seed bank. This is my own home experiment and I am starting with Kale, more specifically organic heirloom Siberian Kale. I know it is hard to convince everybody of this fact, but kale is one of THE BEST nutrient rich vegetables, and Brassica napus is the best of the best! Ok, now on on to my project. I actually planted the kale seeds very late in the fall last year. They sprouted late, we had a snow storm at the end of October, the sprouts wintered over in the soil and amazingly came back and flourished in the spring!
I am sure there are other faster better ways to harvest and save these tiny little seeds. But, I thought I would document my simple old fashioned hand done efforts and share.
First, I began researching where to buy my non genetically modified, organic heirloom seeds. I purchased from several suppliers to see which company and seeds I like best. I even wrote a blog post about Seeds of Old Fashioned Communication and in that post I list where to find old fashioned seed catalogs (the catalog list will be at the end of the post). As a result, I really like Baker Creek seeds and what they are doing. You can find their seeds at heirloomgardener.com and they have a blog as well at heirloomgirl.com. If you are into books, they even have an heirloom gardening book and magazine. I love the material in their magazine-especially some some of the historic stories.
But I digress, now back to growing and harvesting my own nutrient rich KALE seeds and “seed banking” them. I turned to the iInternet to learn all I could about Kale for my first trial run. I chose only one vegetable to start to learn how to correctly harvest the seeds. I found that there is not really very much information on how to do it and even less pictures of what the seed pods look like. I guess everyone just buys ready packed seeds or potted plant starts.
Therefore this blog post will provide some pictures of how I harvested my own Kale seeds and it is also a compilation of EVERYTHING you would ever want to know or find about Kale.
BASIC INFORMATION
Organic Siberian Kale seed produces a plant which has huge, blue-green feathery oak leaf-type leaves and white stems making it a very striking kale. This is one of the best varieties for raw salad use and spring “napini,” as leaves are more tender than most other kales. The pplants are extremely hardy and grow rapidly. Flavor is actually improved by light frost, but Siberian Kale is exceptional anytime. Thomas Jefferson commonly included Siberian kale in his kitchen garden at Monticello. A very cold hardy kale that is perfect for northern growers.
Introduction- Brassica napus ssp. pabularia. The Russo-Siberian Kales mostly have come out of Northern Europe and Northern Asia, though in the past century they have been shuffled back and forth across the globe like many of our cultivated plant species. Red Russian and Siberian are the two most well known varieties in the United States, however many others have been developed from these lines. This kale is typically more tender and have a milder flavor than the European “oleracea” kales and are therefore the young leaves are better for salad use. They are always superb as a cooked vegetable when the leaves have grown to full size. Most varieties are great and are used for their springtime sprouts (similar to broccoli raab), although some varieties are specially bred for that use.
Napus kales are super hardy winter survivalists. They are hardy to at least 10°F once established and some sources claim them to be hardy to -10°F and maybe -20°F. Survival at these extra low temperatures may require a good mulch and/or snow cover. There are many factors known and unknown that can effect winter hardiness and there can be no real guarantee for how cold a crop can go. Wind can be an important factor in killing plants and a pattern of freeze thaw freeze thaw can also be detrimental. They Perform best in cool weather but many varieties of napus kales tolerate hot weather. It is widely known that the flavor of Russo-Siberian kale sweetens dramatically after first frost. It can be grown anywhere in the US and even in Alaska.
Being variable in its forms, Brassica napus is divided into three groups or subspecies. The Rutabaga (Swedes in England) is ssp. napobrassica or rapifera and are grown for grown for their swollen stems/roots that resemble turnips (B. rapa).
Russo-Siberian Kales and Hanover Salad are ssp. pabularis or pabularia and are grown for their leaves that may resemble those of the European kales (B. oleracea). Winter rape and canola (colza in India) are ssp. Oleifera and are grown for their edible leaves, livestock forage, or for the oil rich seed. All have large, flat leaves 12-20 in (30.5-50.8 cm) long and 8-15 in (20.3-38.1 cm) wide, stand 2-4 ft (0.6-1.2 m) when mature, have yellow, cross-shaped flowers with four petals and the small seed develops in sickle shaped pods.
Currently, the species Brassica napus is thought to have originated from a chance hybridization between Brassica rapa and Brassica oleracea. This cross probably happened in European gardens during the Middle Ages. The rutabaga, kale and rape may have all originated from separate chance hybridizations between the diverse forms of B. napa and B. oleracea. For example, napus kale could have been derived from B. oleracea ssp. acephala (kale/collard) crossing with the B. napa ssp. Chinensis (Asian mustard). Just as the rutabaga could have been derived from B. oleracea ssp. acephala (kale/collard) crossing with the B. napa ssp. Rapifera (turnip).
The red russian type of kales may have a different story. Tim Peters of Peters Seed and Reseach did an experament to retrace the evolution of B. napus. He first crossed a Chinese cabbage(B. rapa) with a European kale(B. oleracea). He did these crosses with a bud polination technique, which he says “let the two species have more time to get to now each other”. After the first cross the result was a beautiful Siberian kale (B. napus). then he crossed in black mustard (B. nigra). This resulted in the red russian type (B. napus?) with its distinct color and leaf shapes. So some of the B. napus species are two way mix-ups and some are three way mix-ups. How wonderful! This throws a wrench of doubt into the machine of the probable genealogy of plants.
HISTORY OF KALE
Kale is a descendent of the wild cabbage, a plant thought to have originated in Asia Minor and to have been brought to Europe around 600 BC by Celtic travelers. This wild cabbage is considered a native to coastal southern and western Europe, where its tolerance of salt and lime, but intolerance of competition from other plants, restricts its growing area to limestone sea cliffs. Kale was a popular vegetable in Europe during the Middle Ages. English settlers brought kale to the United States in the 17th century.
Kale is a member of the cruciferae family of plants that includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts. So, I only planted kale first. Once harvested, I then will plant my other cruciferae plants about mid summer. There are two kinds of kale, Brassica napus and Brassica oleraceae. Brassica napus includes the Pabularia group known as Siberian Kale or Red Russian Kale. Brassica oleraceaeincludes the Acephala group also known as collards and Dinosaur Kale. Dinosaur kale is a much more recent variety. It was discovered in Italy in the late 19th century.
PLANTING KALE (Siberian Kale)
Kale grows best in soil rich in organic material and high in nitrogen. Composting is the most popular and economic way to provide the best organic matter for your garden, by the way.
– 215 seeds/gm or 6,000 seeds/ounce. (Wild Garden)
– 300 seeds/gm or 8,400 seeds/ounce. (Territorial)
– 355 seeds/gm or 10,000 seeds/ounce. (Jevons)
- Germination Temperature: Optimal 55-75°F
- Days to emergence: 3-8 Days Minimum or 5-15 Days maximum
- Legal germination standard: 75% minimum
- Soil and Fertility: All types of kale are fairly heavy soil feeders, however they tolerate low fertility better than other brassicas (like cabbage and cauliflower). If under fertilized kale plants will grow smaller and slower but still retain good overall plant health. Be thoughtful with the fertility issue. Pests such as aphids can zero in on kale when stressed. Too much fertility can cause problems too. Most sources suggest to amend well with a rich compost or composted manure or use 1/4-1/2 cup of a balanced fertilizer per plant. As with other Brassicas, early varieties may require more soil nutrients than the later maturing varieties. They will Tolerate a pH range of 4.2 to 8.3, but prefers somewhere closer to 7 pH. The application of agricultural lime is advised if the soil is naturally acidic, as it tends to be in the pacific northwest. The plants prefers sandy/light, loamy/medium or clay/heavy soils. They prefer well-drained soil, but will grow in heavy soil.
- Seeding Depth: 1/4-1/2″
- Spacing: Biointensive– 15 in. equidistant, 84 plants/100 sq. ft. in raised beds. Traditional– sow 1-2 in apart in rows 24 in apart. thin to 16-24 in. Thin at 3rd true leaf and use thinnings in salad, leaving the strongest plants.
- Water Requirements: Moderate. Do not over-water to an extreme constant sogginess and do not let the plants wilt heavily due to lack of water. While growing best in moist soil, some varieties are more tolerant of temporarily water-logging and/or drought. Underwatering can directly relate to lower yeilds.
- Light Requirements: Full sun/partial shade (light woodland), Full sun is optimal.
- Temperature Requirements: Cold temperatures below (-4°C) may either kill or injure seedlings. However, temperatures of -2°C has no affect when the plants are more than one month old (Plants for a Future).
- Other Techniques: A mulch applied in cold weather will help plants live through very cold temperatures and will help plants stay vigorous to promote good growth in the early spring.
- All Kales are less susceptible to insect and disease damage than their cousin brassicas (like cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower) and napus kales are no exception.
HARVESTING KALE for JUST EATING
Siberian Kale just before harvesting the seeds
As I previously stated, kale is a hearty vegetable that prefers the cold weather and if cared for correctly can produce a surplus of leaves throughout every season, including the winter. The time frame for harvesting kale is a personal decision, loosely based on flavor preferences. For those that require the lighter side to kale’s taste, younger leaves will suffice. But for those that like the more pungent and bold flavor of kale, the matured leaves of fall are preferable.
1) I planted this Kale very late last fall. And, it survived into early spring as we had a VERY mild winter last year. In the spring I picked some fresh leaves for eating and some for freezing.
2) If you are only growing only to eat the kale, then harvest your kale immediately after the first frost or very early spring from over wintering. This is the best time to remove leaves from your kale plants for cooking and salads. Frost actually enhances the flavor of kale, and for plants that were sewn in the spring, their fall maturity will allow them to survive through winter. Pick what you need throughout the season. Kale can be harvested soon after the plants begin to grow leaves. Younger leaves can be a tasty addition to some salads, and the more mature leaves become more flavorful as they grow. Leaves can be taken from the kale up until they are covered by a blanket of snow.
3) Protect your kale with a thick layer of mulch if you wish to continue harvesting throughout the winter. Since kale prefers colder temperatures, their flavors become intensified in the winter. If you prefer the winter flavor, protect your kale from the snow, in order to enjoy their tasty leaves when it thaws.
4) Remove the outer leaves of the Kale plant as it matures, for a continuous cycle of growth. The center of the kale plant containing the bud will continue to produce fresh leaves when the outer ones are removed. By following this rule of thumb, you can expect a vast amount of kale production to suit your needs. Choose leaves that are bright green and fresh, as opposed to yellowed leaves, when harvesting kale for eating. The yellowish leaves can produce an undesirable taste, and their limp appearance may be unappetizing.
SAVING KALE SEEDS (seed production, seed harvest and seed saving)
My Siberian Kale Seed Pods
For some people this might seem like this an obvious overly easy thing to do, where you simply just throw all the seeds in a brown paper bag for use later and be done with it. But, some care and attention are needed to perform this task to preserve the integrity of good quality heirloom seeds. Furthermore, there are entire generations of people who have never ever seen this done before, much less performed it themselves as they have only eaten processed or grocery store foods their entire lives. We indeed have become less and less of an agrarian society. Now, onto harvesting the seeds! First grow the plants as normal for food production and harvest as much as desired, as long as the growth tips are not damaged or cut off. Because they are biennials (flowering usually starts in April for overwintered plants)they must be overwintered or dug and stored in a cooler or root cellar in extreme climates. This is usually done in sand or sawdust filled crates at 32-40 F and 90-95% humidity. Again, plants can be overwintered outside in almost any climate if a heavy mulch is applied. Digging and replanting the plants is always useful if you want to inspect the root system of each plant for selection purposes. Only save seed from top quality plants and a culling percentage of over 50% is common and beneficial. It is wise to grow at least 10-50 plants to check for off types and to preserve the genetic diversity of the population. This is why I grew mine so close together. One for easy pollination and two, I knew that I was doing this for seed production and therefore saved some space. The seed stalks grow to about 3 feet tall or more and provide excellent forage for bees and beneficial insects.
Harvest the seed pods after they have started to turn yellowish green to yellow tan and dry. Cut down the entire plant at the base with clippers and let the harvested seed pods dry further for a day or two if a large percentage of the seed pods are ripe. For me, I the timing of seed harvest determination is purely a visual thing, with the seed pods having an appearance between yellowish green and fully dried out yellow pods. Don’t harvest them too early or the seeds won’t be viable. I cut any remaining good green leaves off the stalk of the plant I cut and put them in one location for immediate freezing as soon as I finished harvesting the seed pods. I then grabbed the cut stalk end with one hand and stripped off the all pods with my other hand in one swift motion. I put the pods into my wheel barrow (a very large bucket will do as well). I repeated this process over and over until I finished 1/2 of my seed harvest.
Drying Kale Seed Pods on a Plastic Tablecloth
You can thresh the pods you have harvested by jumping on the pods placed on a tarp. But, I was a bit more careful and did not have scads of pods or seeds to do this. So, I poured all the seed pods out on a plastic table cloth to thoroughly dry them turning the pods a couple times a day (you can get cheap plastic table clothes at Walmart for a couple of dollars).
I removed the bulk of the shattered seed pods by hand, just by scooping them up and crushing them by rubbing the seed pods in my hands and then sort of sifted them in my hands and simply let the seeds drop back on the plastic table cloth. I repeated this process over and over until most of the seeds had been separated from their pods. You can also winnow the seeds. But, since I do not have anyway to do any major winnowing (which can be done in a breeze or with a fan in order to blow away the chafe, leaving behind the seeds). I discarded the pod casings in the compost pile.
Sifting Kale Seed from the Chafe or Seed Pod Casings
In this picture to the left you can see my sifter. This was quite easy to do actually. But, it is just a little time consuming. I then used my handy dandy little sifter which has about an 1/8″ screen to help with cleaning out the remaining pod casing fragments. This is a bit tedious and I did not get everything out perfectly. But hey, it’s my first time.
I will find a better screening and winnowing process for the next go ’round. I completed my sifting of all the seed pod casings, I then poured the seeds into small plastic freezing containers, which I bought from Walmart. I de-cided to do this rather than using glass canning jars for safety reasons, as there are grandchildren running about who like to help. And, I can freeze these small containers quite easily, for longer term storage. What ever sort of container you choose to use, make sure you store you seeds in a place safe from insects and rodents in a dry cool location and in an airtight container, if the seed is very dry. My seeds will last me 5 years, maybe more, and if stored under ideal conditions and even up to 10 years or more if dried properly and frozen.
Possible Seed Yield:
– 3.8 lb/100 sq. ft. Max yield (Jevons)
– I read that predicting the seed yield of a brassica crop can be a “crap shoot”. I of course did not get too many seeds, but this is a lot for a small home gardener. And, I won’t have to buy any seed for 5 years or more hopefully. PS, there is more in the garden to harvest, so I predict double of what you see in the container when all is said and done. I planted a very small but intensive 10 – 15 ft row that was about two feet wide. This container shows about 1/2 my heirloom seed yield, as I am doing it in two harvests.
The remainder of this blog post is about just about anything else you want or could want to know about kale which I gathered from a large variety of sources on the Internet.
How to Preserve a Variety’s Genetic Makeup. Kale is an insect pollinated biennial. Different kale varieties must be isolated by ¼ mile in order to prevent cross pollination. Closer distances may be adequate if tree lines, woods or buildings are in between the different gardens. There are many ways you can accidentally change an heirloom variety—some obvious, others more subtle. To successfully grow an heirloom variety seed for preservation, it helps to grow, harvest, process and store your seeds with care and a good understanding of their health needs. Of course, you must also keep them from mixing or ‘crossing’ with other varieties—which would ruin the batch of seeds for preservation purposes.
Avoid Genetic Loss Caused by Growing Practices. Below are some of the ways you can accidentally change a variety as a result of the way it is grown:
- Plants intolerant of your particular growing conditions might die or produce few or no seeds—lowering their genes’ representation in the variety’s gene pool (see Avoid Unconscious Selection).
- Plants can be cross-pollinated by other varieties, resulting in permanent mixing of their genes (see Avoiding Cross-Pollination).
- Even simply growing too few plants can make a seed batch’s gene pool too small, weakening that population of seeds permanently (see this example of How To Avoid Inbreeding Depression in Corn, for example).
NUTRIENTS IN KALE
Carotenoids in Kale: At UNH, Dr. Dean Kopsell, Assistant Professor of Plant Biology, and Dr. Joanne Curran-Celentano, Associate Professor of Animal and Nutritional Sciences, are collaborating on the Carotenoid Project. They have a grant from the USDA to study the role of carotenoids in human health. In Curran-Celentano’s project, they were looking at how well humans take up lutein and deposit it in the macula lutea of their eyes. The macula lutea is the region of highest visual acuity in the eye. “Among all the vegetables, kale ranks highest in its concentration of the xanthophyll carotenoidslutein and zeaxanthin, the yellow-orange pigments plants evolved to help protect their tissues against the harmful effects of excess solar radiation.”Lutein and zeaxanthin are like sunscreen for the plant’s leaves. It is believed that these two carotenoids have the same protective properties on the human eye. When concentrated in the macula lutea they can absorb and disperse ultraviolet radiation to help protect against cataracts and macular degeneration. Curran-Celentano also verified that eating a variety of vegetables with high amounts of carotenoids, such as kale, is more beneficial than taking the same carotenoids in a supplement form.
Kopsell and his team have examined the genetic, cultural, and environmental factors that maximize the concentration of carotenoids in leafy greens. The team analyzed dozens of kale varieties. They found three varieties had two and a half times the carotenoid levels of the rest of the varieties. One of those varieties is the Dinosaur or Lacinato Blue Kale (Brassica oleraceae).
Glucosinolates in Kale: Kale contains a variety of glucosinolates which, when broken down by the body, form different isothiocyanates. Isothiocyanates and their metabolites have been found to inhibit the development of chemically induced cancers of the lung, liver, esophagus, stomach, small intestine, colon, and mammary gland in a variety of animal models. Sulforaphane, an isothiocyanate, may help prevent cancer by promoting the elimination of potential carcinogens from the body and enhancing the transcription of tumor suppressor proteins. When kale is chopped or chewed, myrosinase, a class of enzyme, begins to interact with the glucosinolates and release the isothiocyanates. This increases the amount absorbed by the body. However, the absorption of isothiocyanates is substantially lower from cooked than from raw kale. Glucosinolates are water-soluble compounds that may be leached into cooking water. Boiling kale from 9–15 minutes can result in an 18–59% decrease in the total glucosinolate content. Cooking methods that use less water, such as steaming or sautéing may reduce glucosinolate losses (see recipe below). Several studies have found that inactivation of myrosinase in cruciferous vegetables substantially decreases the bioavailability of isothiocyanates7. Cooking at high heat may also decrease the activity of plant based myrosinase, but our gastrointestinal tract also has myrosinase, and still may be able to break down the glucosinolates.
Vitamins in Kale: When choosing the most nutritious varieties of kale, pick the deepest colors, as these will most often have higher contents of vitamins and carotenoids. Dinosaur Kale is a good example of a very dark-green kale. Pick fresh leaves from your garden and eat them within a few days, because the longer kale is kept the more the flavor declines. Keep the leaves in cool water or in the refrigerator, as kale kept in warm temperatures for too long will wilt and lose its flavor and the nutrients will begin to deteriorate.
|
Nutrients in Kale, Fresh, 1 Cup Cooked
|
| Nutrient |
Approx. % daily Value
|
Approx. Amount per Serving
|
| Vitamin A |
192%
|
10,000 IU
|
| Vitamin C |
89%
|
55 mg
|
| Vitamin B6 |
9%
|
0.2 mg
|
| Manganese |
27%
|
.533 mg
|
| Dietary Fiber |
12%
|
~
|
| Calcium |
13%
|
136 mg
|
| Folate |
7%
|
20 mcg
|
|
Growing Seeds of Change Kale
|
| Variety Name |
Best time to Plant |
Time to Harvest |
Planting Depth |
Mature Plant Height |
Variety Details |
Dinosaur Kale
(Lacinato Blue) |
July for fall harvest or early spring, multiple plantings for baby greens. |
50–60 days mature, 30 days baby |
1/8 inch |
2–3 feet |
Bluish, dimpled, long narrow leaves, extremely cold hardy, sweeter after frost. |
| Red Russian Kale |
July for fall harvest or early spring, multiple plantings for baby greens |
50–60 days mature, 30 days baby |
1/8 inch |
24–30 |
Retains its sweetness in hot weather, tolerates cold too. |
| Red Ursa Kale |
July for fall harvest or early spring, multiple plantings for baby greens |
55–65 days mature, 25 days baby |
1/8 inch |
24–30 |
Cross between Red Russian and True Siberian, heat tolerant, very bolt resistant. |
| White Russian Kale |
July for fall harvest or early spring, multiple plantings for baby greens |
50–60 days mature, 30 days baby |
1/8 inch |
10–14 inches |
Cross between Red Russian and True Siberian, selected for flattened leaves and white vein, cold hardy to 10°F |
| True Siberian Kale |
July for fall harvest or early spring, multiple plantings for baby greens. |
60–70 days mature, 35 days baby |
1/8 inch |
24–30 inches |
Large, frilly blue-green leaves, slow to bolt, hardy to frost, which sweetens the flavor. |
Kale is The Phytonutrient Master: Phytonutrients are health promoting plant compounds found in vegetables such as broccoli, spinach, and most of all, kale. The latest research shows that, of all the vegetables, kale has the highest concentrations of phytonutrients, especially the carotenoid phytonutrients, lutein and zeaxanthin. At the University of New Hampshire (UNH), two professors from two different disciplines are working together to find out what these nutrients mean to our fight against macular degeneration and cataracts. Kale also contains other phytonutrients like sulfur-containing compounds called glucosinolates. These glucosinolates have been found to raise levels of certain cancer-fighting enzymes in our bodies.
Cooking with Kale: There are so many great ways to eat kale, from raw to cooked, in tasty soups or in salads, and kale is easy to grow in our own gardens. We should be eating this phytonutrient master every day! Read on and find out where kale originated, how to grow kale, how to prepare a delicious recipe using kale, and how it can improve your health.
- This link is probably my favorite recipe for sauteed kale, and it is SO simple to make and has such fantastic flavor.
- Here are 14 recipes to explore cooking with kale
- Kale with Cannellini Beans. A recipe from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, by Deborah Madison. It serves 2 to 4 people.
Ingredients
1 1/2 to 2 pounds kale or mixed greens, stems and ribs removed
Salt and freshly milled pepper
1 small onion, finely diced
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
2 plump garlic cloves, minced
Pinch red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 1/3 cups cooked cannellini beans
Freshly grated parmesan, optional
Simmer the kale using 1 quart of water in a large cast iron skillet, bring to a boil, and add 1-teaspoon salt and greens. Simmer, uncovered turning the leaves until all are tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Drain.
Save the nutrient-rich liquid for stock. Chop the leaves.
In a large skillet, sauté the onion in the oil with the garlic, pepper flakes, and rosemary for about 3 minutes.
Add the wine and cook until it’s reduced to a syrupy sauce. Add the beans, kale, and enough cooking water (kale stock) to keep the mixture loose. Heat through, taste for salt and season with pepper, and serve with a dusting of Parmesan.
Serve with, or over, garlic-rubbed croutons or top with breadcrumbs crisped in olive oil.
PESTS
There are not too many Insects and Pests that can impact Kale.But the list below can occasionally be pesky issues. I had lady bugs and some spiders on mine. All good for my garden!
Aphids– May infest plants rapidly when vigor is low, as in the early spring. Common when plants are young and when flowering and seed formation has begun. Avoid by transplanting plants that have not been stunted and growing healthy plants in fertile soil. Most infested plants will pull through when vigorous growth begins. Avoid by planting out later in the season when aphid populations are at their low. Control with Insecticidal soap, hot pepper wax, a hard spray of water. Balance formative forces with horsetail tea (Storl). Encourage predatory insects with insectary crops.
Fungus Gnats– mainly a problem in greenhouses. Can slowly kill young seedlings or set them back in growth drastically. The larva eat organic matter in the soil and love brassica seedling roots.
‘Cabbage White’ Larva/root maggots/loppers/cabbage worm – exclude pests with row cover/fleece such as reemay or agribond. Use summer insect barrier netting or mosquito netting if temperatures are too hot for row covers.
Flea Beetles– exclude pests with row cover/fleece such as reemay or agribond (this is not always effective). Use summer insect barrier netting or mosquito netting if temperatures are too hot for row covers. Predatory nematodes may be an effective deterrent, but must be applied every year. Avoid growing during time of peak beetle population.
Symphylans – Tiny white centipedes that can do lots of damage to roots. They pretty much to avoid healthy plants, but not all the time.
KALE DISEASES:
Club Root– An infection that causes white club-like swollen roots. This hinders the plants ability to take up water and nutrients, generally stunting growth. In severely infected plants, it will cause severe wilting even when soil is moist and eventually will kill the plant. Some varieties are more resistant than others. Napus is not as affected as other brassica species. This disease is virulent once established and extremely difficult to eradicate.
Damping Off– Young plants fall over and begin to wilt. The stem looking pinched and rotten at the soil surface. It is mainly a problem with young transplants in flats, especially in greenhouses, and is avoided with good air circulation and dry soil surface on cool evenings.
OTHER USES FOR KALE:
Culinary Uses: (I found and shared some recipes above. But, here is just a little more information). The leaf is eaten in Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter (for best flavor). They may be eaten raw, in salad, steamed, boiled, soup, sauté, stir fried or roasted. The young flower shoots (napini/raab) are eaten in spring and are very sweet, can be cooked like and have the texture of broccoli or asparagus. They may be eaten raw, in salad, steamed, boiled, soup, sauté, stir fried or roasted. Oil made from the seeds can be used as a cooking oil or salad oil. Be warned that the oil contained in the seed of some varieties of this species can be rich in erucic acid which is toxic. Although, modern cultivars have been selected which are almost free of erucic acid. The seed can be used to start sprouts to be used the same as alfalfa sprouts. The seed can also be used as a mustard flavoring.
Medicinal Uses: The root is emollient and diuretic. The juice of the roots is used in the treatment of chronic coughs and bronchial catarrh. The seed, powdered, with salt is said to be a folk remedy for cancer. Rape oil is used in massage and oil baths, it is believed to strengthen the skin and keep it cool and healthy. With camphor it is applied as a remedy for rheumatism and stiff joints (Plants for a Future)
Oil: The seed contains up to 45% edible semi-drying oil. This oil can be used as a luminant, lubricant, in soap making, fuel for diesel engines etc. (Plants for a Future)
Naturalized Range and Habitat: Wild populations of Brassica napus are found throughout Europe and the Mediterranean (including Britain), India, most states in the US and probably many other countries. Its preferred habitat can be the banks of streams, ditches and arable fields (USDA)
Feeding Livestock: The plants can cost effectively be grown in mass and even used to feed livestock
Other Resources:
- More about Kale
- Peg Boyles, “Health & horticultural research at UNH: leafy greens at the leading edge,”UNH Cooperative Extension (2005),
- Linus Pauling Institute, s.v. “Isothiocyanates” (2005)
- George Mateljan Foundation, s.v.”Kale,” The World’s Healthiest Foods, whfoods.org (2002-2006)
- Wikipedia, s.v. “Brassica oleracea” (2006)
- Boyles, “Health and horticulture research.”
- www.csmc.edu/pdf/cancer_fighting_foods.pdf
- www.elook.org/nutrition/vegetables/2503.html
- www.fda.gov/diabetes/pyramid.gif
- http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/
- www.pbrc.edu/Division_of_Education/pdf/PNS_cruciferous_vegetables.pdf
- Kopsell, Dean, A., Curran-Celentano, Joanne. Variation in Lutein, B-carotene, and Chlorophyll Concentrations among Brassica oleraceae Cultigens and Seasons. 2004. HortScience 39(2): 361-364.
Thanks for reading my post! I hope the information is useful to others. Let me know if this information was helpful to you saaaaaI tried to put ALL the information I could possibly find in one place. Of course, I am sure that there are more sources out there, so let me know if you come across any other useful information and I will gladly add it to the resources section.
Until my next post, Happy Gardening! ~ Alice M. Fisher
Yesterday I made homemade apple sauce, spiced apple jelly and apple mint jelly. I then canned them all. I ended up with about 8 quarts of apple sauce and 12 pints of apple jelly from a half bushel of apples. I used all the cores and skins to make the jelly and ran out and picked fresh mint from my little herb garden to make apple mint jelly.
Alice's Homestead Homefront News 